[Photograph: Jessie Pascoe]

Known for its smoked meat and deli-style dishes (think chopped liver, veal sweetbreads, lamb's tongue), Mile End's dinner menu is not for the faint of heart. A compromise among these hard-hitting carnivorous entrées and, well, a romaine salad, is the cod fritter falafel ($11), which gives traditional falafel a run for its money. Shaped like falafel, these cod fritters have a light, crisp crust (no grease!) with a flaky fish interior. You'll wish for plenty more in your order.

Honestly though, the pita steals the spotlight. Mile End makes this bread to order, and it comes out all warm and toasty; it keeps the fritter balls hot and provides pillowy contrast against the chopped lettuce, tangy tahini and skhug, a Middle Eastern hot sauce that gives the last bite a nice kick goodbye. Of course, if you really want to put a capital F in your fried food indulgence, order a side of Mile End's poutine (classic $10; smoked meat $14) for the ultimate TGI Fry-Day meal.

Mile End

97 A Hoyt St, Brooklyn, NY 11217 (map)

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