[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

Confession: I'm a bit of a commitment-phobe. My days tend to revolve around planning my next meal, whether I'm fantasizing about the cravings it will satisfy or tormenting myself with the prospect of disappointment. Being forced to choose a single dish can quickly transform into overwhelming paralysis (did I mention that waiters absolutely adore me?). That's why today's lunch from Souvlaki GR may be my long-awaited salvation.

The pikilia ($12) includes a choice of four of their five dips (greatly improved odds in my book), along with hand-cut fries and pita bread. The fries are just the right amount of greasy, with nice browned bits here and there. They're also beautifully seasoned with oregano, so you can still feel sophisticated while shoveling them into your mouth by the handful. The pita gets major points for achieving a slightly crisp crust that gives way to a soft, warm, doughy interior. It's the perfect vessel for the gems of the meal: taramasalata, hummus, melitzanosalata, and tzatziki.

I'm kind of convinced that taramosalata should be designated a controlled substance; not only does it make me euphoric, but I literally cannot stop eating it until I've licked the plate (or container) clean. Souvlaki GR's taramosalata proves no exception to the rule, and the rest of the spreads were equally well executed and almost as delectable. The dish could easily be shared among friends as an appetizer, but for commitment-phobes like me, it makes for a perfect main course.

Souvlaki GR

116 Stanton Street, New York, NY 10002 (map)

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