Gnocchi ($14 small, pictured; $19 large)
Any gnocchi dish with good color on each tiny dumpling earns immediate points from us. The best bite is one with both peas and ramps, swiped up with Parmesan cream—the vibrance of spring with the warmth of hearty potato and cheese.
Bread (with Ricotta)
Generous with salt, olive oil, and rosemary, the loaf has a beautiful hole structure and an internal elasticity that makes you think a baker sort of baker was involved. It's impressive, and more to the point delicious, particularly with olive oil-topped ricotta that's texturally closer to mascarpone.
Crisp kale salad ($10)
The flash-fried kale petals are perched atop a salad of raw kale, daikon, and a chili-spiked, fish sauce-graced sweet and savory vinaigrette that mingles with Thai basil. The whole effect is deeply aromatic while not masking the satisfying flavors of the kale itself.
Pastured hen egg ($12)
A warm, comforting bowl of mushrooms (hedgehog mushrooms, shiitake, trumpet royale) and spinach with an egg on top was the sort of thing I'd love for a brunch that feels satisfying but not decadent.
Spaghetti ($14 small, pictured; $19 large)
The rough-edged spaghetti is cloaked in a sauce of garlic, chili, and shrimp broth with uni effectively melted right in, the funk of the sea clinging to each strand, with a soft cut draped over the whole bit.
Veal sweetbreads a la Meunière ($14)
These are glossy enough to slide over the tongue, creamy and satisfying, their richness amplified by a classic Meunière, unabashed brown butter cut with lemon and capers just so.
Duck breast ($28)
Duck breast, consommé, and foie gras tortellini.
Berkshire pork ($27)
I couldn't stop eating the green jumble underneath, fava beans together with basil, parsley, dandelion greens, arugula, and vegetables; piquillo peppers provide the contrast.
Pear clafoutis ($6)
Not nearly eggy enough to say "clafoutis" to us, but as a pleasant fruit-topped closer? No complaints.