[Photograph: Garrett Ziegler]

The Bodega isn't a store; it's a bar. And The Pig and the Goat ($8) isn't a bar snack; it's a work of art.

We didn't expect much, to be honest, given that sandwiches get made in a corner, near where they keep bar towels and growlers. The sandwich starts with two hunks of ciabatta, onto which go some sprouts as well as several slicks of prosciutto (the pig) and goat cheese (the goat). But what elevates this sandwich is the slick you can't see: a hefty layer of apricot jam. Its tart-sweetness countervails the salty ham and cool cheese, each bite a wicked pastiche of expectations way, way surpassed. We chased ours with long pulls of Southern Tier 2X Milk Stout, but The Bodega offers a rotating selection of other beverages as well.

The Bodega

24 St. Nicholas Avenue, Brooklyn NY 11237 (map)

About the authors: Jessica Allen and Garrett Ziegler write Date Night for Serious Eats: New York, as well as the blog We Heart New York.

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