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Explorations of the frying arts.

TGI Fry-Day: Sobakoh's Agedashi Sobagaki

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[Photo: Jessie Pascoe]

Sobakoh's Agedashi Sobagaki ($7), fried soba dumplings, are described as this on their menu: "fried soba gnocchi stuffed with ground chicken served with light sauce, ground Japanese radish and Japanese scallions on top." That description is enough to sign us up, but we silently feared for overly fried balls filled with dry, crumbling ground chicken. Our apprehensions were put to rest immediately upon seeing the dish. First, the presentation was inviting: the agedashi sobagaki came with three golden dumplings that looked almost healthy as they shouldered the white mound of ground radish and green scallions. They tasted something like savory timbit doughnuts—served piping hot with varying layers of cooked dough: the crispy exterior was slightly hardened, the next level was slightly more mushy, and the interior was soft and delectable thanks to the core scoop of juicy ground chicken. Guess Sobakoh's laborious practice of making their own buckwheat soba dough pays off, huh?

Sobakoh

309 East 5th Street, New York NY 10003 (map)
212-254-2244

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