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Bowien stretches biang biang mien-style noodles. [Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

My friends in San Francisco like to point out all the advantages their fair city has over mine. The pleasant weather, the superior produce, the three-hour time advantage, the back yards and dog-friendly restaurants. Sometimes, it's enough to make me want to give them a piece of my cranky, churlish New Yorker's mind, at least until I remember all the things that New York does better. I can't remember them off the top of my head, but I'm sure they exist.

Well, we can strike one item off the better-in-SF list, and it's a major one. Mission Chinese Food, one of the best restaurants I ate at in 2011 (see my review here) is coming to New York this fall. And this is not just an offshoot, franchise, train-the-new-staff-and-run outpost; Danny Bowien, the young Korean-American chef behind the food at the original in San Francisco's Mission District is relocating to the East Coast to head up the new Lower East Side location at 154 Orchard Street.

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A Feast

According to Bowien, the menu will remain largely the same, so New Yorkers will have regular access to favorites like Kung Pao Beef, Savory Egg Custard, and insanely crisp and moist fried chicken wings flavored with Sichuan peppercorns and more chilis than a New Jersey strip mall.

Can you tell I'm excited about this?

We'll make sure to keep you updated as things progress. If all goes according to plan, the restaurant should be up and running in the spring.

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