A Sandwich A Day: Torta Hawaiiana at La Cocina Mexicana, the Bronx
In this great city of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around New York. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.
In Allerton, you're more likely to find jerk chicken than Mexican fare. But if you're in need, tiny La Cocina Mexicana's tortas are more then tasty enough to satisfy a neighborhood craving. Take the Hawaiiana ($7): lightly toasted bread, crisp and panini-like, with slabs of supermarket-pink ham, fried pork, and the usual torta suspects. The ham is rather shy, but the sweet and salty fried pork--oily and indulgent--sings out. Creamy queso and avocado inject some necessary brightness to bring balance, along with those hidden pickled jalapeños, even if they could've been a bit stronger.
La Cocina Mexicana
651 Allerton Avenue, Bronx NY 10467 (map)