[Photograph: Andrew Strenio]

Walk down Court Street and you'll run into quite a few meatballs: at Frankies 457, Sam's, Esposito's, Court Street Grocers. The Meatball Row of Brooklyn? Brucie's also makes them for this lunchtime Meatball Parm ($12). They're a pork-beef blend and plenty juicy, brightened up with lemon zest and fresh herbs.

Not monstrous, about ping-pong-ball-sized, these meatballs get slathered in a simple tomato sauce that melts into the stretchy strands of Brucie's housemade mozzarella, with some basil leaves buried in that delicious mess too. By the time you get to the second half, the roll—from Caputo's, another Court Street neighbor—has soaked up all those oily, herby tomato juices without becoming a soggy sponge.


234 Court Street, Brooklyn NY 11201 (map); 347-987-4961

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