Grilled doughnuts ($8)
"It's our riff on the ubiquitous ricotta-honey-thyme crostini," says Rosen. "It's that idea, but, okay, we have doughnuts." The plain doughnuts "aren't that sweet, really," she says, "so it really lends itself to a sweet-savory preparation."
Tuscan Kale Salad ($10)
"This was a standby at City Bakery," Rosen told us, "and I couldn't take it off the menu." It's just four ingredients—kale, red onion, hazelnut, grana, plus olive oil, salt, and pepper—"but this salad does weird things to people. The lengths people go to get to this salad. It exudes pheromones. Or maybe it makes people exude pheromones."
"Horse and Pig" ($8 with bacon, $5 without)
"This began as just a horseradish sandwich," says Rosen, "but then someone in the kitchen put bacon on it. I love it when things happen like that. I feel like bacon is thrown on everything these days, but this isn't gratuitous bacon." It's stacked up on white country bread "and someone decided to call it Horse and Pig, and it stuck."
Simply prepared and dressed, with pumpkin seeds and ricotta salata.
Ricotta and crackers
Served at dinner in lieu of bread.
Poor Man's Fondue ($6)
"I love cheese. I love melted cheese. When I was a kid, my staple after-school snack was to melt cheese on foil and eat it with my fingers. Except here, it's a dish, which is a little more civilized." This is McCadam cheddar ("Nothing too fancy, just good") from upstate New York, served with bread for dipping and spreading. "There's a little garlic in it, which makes you want beer."
Egg cream ($6)
A classic, made with Fox's U-Bet syrup and Battenkill Valley Creamery Milk. (Soon they're going to give people the option to add a shot, and put the boozy one on the cocktail menu.)
Lamb burger ($16)
Intensely lamb-y, seared in a pan and finished in the oven, served on a bun from Colson Patisserie. Mustard greens replace lettuce, and it's garnished with a yogurt-feta dressing with poached lemon and mint. Why lamb? "I decided long ago that I refused to do a straight hamburger... Everybody and their mother does it."