Slideshow: The Wren: Pub Food from the Wilfie and Nell Team

Pint of prawns ($14)
Pint of prawns ($14)
Each shell-on prawn is brined first and then roasted—perfectly cooked, taut and snappy and not mushy in the slightest. They're seasoned with lemon zest and juice and plenty of Old Bay. Whether you like them depends on your tolerance for that spice blend. If you're down with Old Bay, you'll probably like these very much indeed.
Pickled beets ($4)
Pickled beets ($4)
Powerfully acidic but a little mushy to our taste (they're roasted with salt and dill before the pickling). Still, we'd eat 'em again.
Oxtail marmalade ($7)
Oxtail marmalade ($7)
It looks a bit stringy but it's fattier and juicier than it appears, hearty and meaty, amply salted and peppered; while it's not quite as luscious as oxtail can be, it's more than satisfying, like a pot roast dinner slathered on toast.
Fried aleppo pepper cauliflower ($5)
Fried aleppo pepper cauliflower ($5)
A decent-sized bowl whose veggies sport warm, roasty flavor, enlivened by the marriage of lemon and that aleppo heat.
Heritage pork sausage sandwich ($11)
Heritage pork sausage sandwich ($11)
Made with an excellent snappy link from Los Paisanos in Brooklyn. Pickled fennel and burnt onion mustard dress it up just enough, each powerful in their own way but neither overwhelming the sausage. (The bread's a little awkward, but tasty enough that it's hard to mind.)