Fatty Salmon Belly ($12)
Beautifully prepared, sliced precisely to let each piece seem to melt on the tongue. The care with which each cut is seasoned reminds you that this isn't a lesser chef's bar menu. Soft beads of roe pop on top, and a kumquat-ginger relish cuts through the rich salmon nicely, but they're just an added bonus. Even this salmon in the nude would be worth an order.
Corn and Truffle Fritters ($10)
One of the most memorable things I ate all year—delicate and moist in the middle with dark, earthy truffle bits and a perfect golden-brown shell. Honey (here, tinged with thyme) is a logical accompaniment and a fine sweet to pair savory, but these nuggets need no adornment.
Caramel Cheddar Popcorn ($8)
Flavors we liked together; crunch wasn't what we wanted.
Simple-sounding but a a pleasant surprise: cherry, lemon, and soda whose collective sweetness is tempered by the earthy, bitter Amaro CioCiaro.
Grilled Sardines ($14)
Lie atop a grapefuit aioli with segments of grapefruit to join and curls of fennel.