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[Photo: Carey Jones]

I'm a lover of kale whatever the preparation, but the kale salad ($7) at Chuko in Prospect Heights is truly remarkable. Small pieces of kale take on two forms, some left raw and softly crunchy, some tempura-fried (and, well, crisply crunchy), the batter clinging to their every crag and cranny. They're dressed in a faintly sweet white miso vinaigrette that gently soaks in; pickled golden raisins join the greens, and strands of crisped-up Japanese sweet potato curl on top.

What's amazing about this salad is that you don't know which is better: the crisp fried bits, making you wonder why you don't eat more tempura greens; or the raw bits, where the kale's vivid flavor comes through more powerfully. The answer, of course, is both.

About the author: Carey Jones is the Editor of Serious Eats New York and co-editor of Serious Eats: Sweets. Follow her on Twitter (@careyjones).

Chuko

552 Vanderbilt Avenue, Brooklyn NY 11238 (at Dean Street, map)
718 576-6701

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