[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

Anyone else wishing that the whole "I'm not going to put a sign up, people can find me" trend that started with the speakeasy revivals and has seemed to have infiltrated the realm of restaurants would go away? I certainly did when I was trying to locate Pulqueria, a new high-end Mexican bar and restaurant on Chinatown's Doyers Street. It's located in what was until recently a decades-old Vietnamese restaurant; it's the project of sister and brother team Heather and Christopher Tierney (of Apothéke). Once you do manage to locate it (look for candles leading you into an underground stairwell), the space is warm, festive, and inviting, though it's undoubtedly a scene.

The menu is large but focused, with sections that include apps, tacos, salsas, antojitos (little snacks), enchiladas, delicadezas (light entrees), fuertes (large entrees), and desserts. Each section has just a few carefully crafted selections.

Executive Chef Nacxi Gaxiola (of La Superior) brings some foods from his native Mexico city, but isn't afraid to stray into more obscure regional Mexican cuisines, drawing on recipes and flavors from his extensive culinary travels throughout the country.

Check out the slideshow for a quick look at a few of the dishes and drinks on the menu.

Pulqueria

11 Doyers Street, New York, NY (map)
212-227-3099
pulquerianyc.com

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About the author: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is the Managing Editor of Serious Eats where he likes to explore the science of home cooking in his weekly column The Food Lab. You can follow him at @thefoodlab on Twitter, or at The Food Lab on Facebook.