A Sandwich a Day: Burnt Ends at John Brown Smokehouse
In this great city of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around New York. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.
For years, the only place in New York to enjoy a legit plate of burnt ends was Righteous Urban Barbecue. Thanks to Long Island City's John Brown Smokehouse, barbecue lovers in the big city have a new source for this Kansas City classic.
Josh Bowen, the pit master at John Brown, knows a thing or two about brisket. Having grown up in Kansas City, he also knows quite a bit about burnt ends, which he makes exclusively from brisket deckel (the fatty part). Bowen's pit crew smoke gives the entire slab a double dose of its dry rub, composed of salt, black pepper, brown sugar, paprika, and allspice, among other ingredients.
Then, they stoke the smoker to give the deckel a few extra hours (15 hours total) and dice the finished product onto thick slices of plain white bread. The resulting burnt ends sandwich ($10) is slightly pricey for its portion size, but it is a verified brick of barbecue gold. Drizzle a bit of John Brown's excellent spicy barbecue sauce atop, and you'll find it worth every penny.