Slideshow: Wong in the West Village: Asian Fusion That's (Usually) Done Right

Lobster Egg Foo Young with Leeks, Salted Duck Egg Yolk, and Dried Shrimp Crumble ($24)
Lobster Egg Foo Young with Leeks, Salted Duck Egg Yolk, and Dried Shrimp Crumble ($24)
The really expertly cooked lobster makes this dish almost worth it, but like the Vietnamese pizza, it lacks focus. What do fried eggs, lobster, crumbled salted duck egg, dried shrimp, and some sort of tomato-ey chunky leek sauce have to do with Egg Foo Young, or even with each other? We can't figure it out either.
Bonito Crudo ($13)
Bonito Crudo ($13)
A tasty rice noodle salad underneath slices of bonito sashimi, the basic flavors were quite similar to that of the beef tataki, though the seasoning was more refined here with some true kick to the chili sauce on the side.
Bread Plate
Bread Plate
When it's spot-on, the made-to-order naan that comes to your table before you appetizers is excellent. Moist and supple, it lacks the smoky char of a true coal or wood-fired oven, but a side dish of curry sauce with paneer adds flavor to it. Hopefully their success rate will improve with time.
Fried Oysters with Kimchi Broth and Kimchi Ravioli ($12)
Fried Oysters with Kimchi Broth and Kimchi Ravioli ($12)
A brilliant idea that could do with better execution. I love the idea of a ravioli filled with finely chopped spicy, garlicky kimchi, and indeed, the filling here was excellent. It's the pasta that could do with some refining. Could it just be that we're in a town so full of excellent homemade pasta that nothing short of perfection will do? Perhaps, but that's reality. The oysters, while perfectly crisp, had an overwhelming amount of breading, losing their juiciness and brininess.
Seared Sea Bass with Lemongrass Vinaigrette and Pickled Vegetables
Seared Sea Bass with Lemongrass Vinaigrette and Pickled Vegetables
An extraordinarily simple plate served as a special. Crisply seared sea bass is with velvety soft flesh contrasted by crunchy rice cracker chips and a chunky lemongrass vinaigrette.
Trumpet Royale Mushrooms with Boiled Eggs and Ponzu
Trumpet Royale Mushrooms with Boiled Eggs and Ponzu
Simmering and soaking in a savory citrus and soy-based broth gives slices of mushroom an almost porky texture and savoriness while a shaving of Japanese dried bonito adds some smokiness to complete the bacon-flavored illusion. It's bacon and eggs, reinvented.