The Brunch Dish: Poached Eggs at The Heights Cafe, Brooklyn Heights

The Brunch Dish

Brunch menus to do your weekend right.

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[Photographs: Lauren Sloss]

The Heights Cafe is a pleasant brunch spot, worth visiting as much for its proximity to the Brooklyn waterfront as for its simple, satisfying fare. Their menu aims to go beyond the standard bacon-and-eggs dishes as well, with creative touches meant to liven up classic dishes.

Take the poached eggs ($11.95). Instead of a standard English muffin-based Benedict, the eggs are served on a "grilled cheese smoked chicken griddle cake" (say that 5 times fast) and topped with a creole chorizo tomato sauce. Plenty of those words sound enticing, I'd say, but the dish fell short a bit in execution. The griddle cake worked texturally and a nice smokiness came through from the chicken, but the "grilled cheese" aspect was a not-fully melted slice of American. A sharp cheddar or pepper jack would have been fantastic here (and any cheese should've been melted).The sauce had a rich, spicy flavor; I tasted no evidence of chorizo. but didn't mind too much. I did mind the lack of runny yolk coming from my poached eggs; it would have been stellar mixed in with the sauce and coating the griddle cake.

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The french toast ($10.95) was a simpler dish, but more successful. Thickly sliced brioche was topped with a pear and golden raisin compote, as well as a dollop of sweetened creme fraiche. The bread was excellent and the topping a rich, flavorful addition; nothing new, but a classic done well.

Heights Cafe

84 Montague Street, Brooklyn NY 11201 (map) 718-625-5555
heightscafeny.com