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Photo: Alice Gao

If you're going for dim sum at Dim Sum Go Go, kick things off with the Roast Pork Buns ($2.50 for 3). It's not the porous, squishy bao you might be used to. Here, the baked buns are soft with stretchy layers, yellow and sweet, almost like the packaged "Hawaiian Bread" I loved as a kid.

The char siu inside is incredibly tasty: the right balance of sweet, salty, and porky, with tiny chunks of meat that are well-integrated but sizable enough to really taste. It's not goopy or sugary in the slightest, and the filling constitutes the better part of the package. They don't stiff you on the good stuff.

We generally share things at the Lunch Today table, but after tearing off the corner of a bun, almost every eater kept the whole thing to himself. They've got some pretty killer fried pumpkin cakes, too. But we'll get to those tomorrow.

Dim Sum Go Go

5 East Broadway, New York NY 10038 (map)
212-732-0797

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