Slideshow: 12 Best Bites at The Art of the Taco

Beef Brisket and Bone Marrow Taco from Kin Shop
Beef Brisket and Bone Marrow Taco from Kin Shop
Harold Dieterle of Kin Shop didn't just dress up a tortilla in Thai ingredients: he topped flaky, pliant roti with beef brisket and bone marrow. Fried taro root added a little crunch, radish sprouts a fresh crisp, but this "taco" was all about meat, already tender, fatty brisket brought to absurd richness by melty bone marrow. One of the least taco-like, but one of the most memorable.
Tacos Campechanos from Hecho en Dumbo
Tacos Campechanos from Hecho en Dumbo
"Best tortilla" award easily went to Danny Mena at Hecho en Dumbo, whose warm, fresh corn tortilla put most of the others to shame. But the filling was every bit its equal: chopped steak and pork belly chorizo together, chicharron for fatty crunch and an earthy, smoky salsa to finish it all off.
Braised Lamb from Balaboosta
Braised Lamb from Balaboosta
Every time we go to Balaboosta, we find more to love. This time, it was sultry braised lamb leg cut by a lemon-yogurt feta sauce whose sharp tang really made this taco. Stray pomegranate seeds added an occasional burst of sweetness.
Tacos de Cabeza from Toloache
Tacos de Cabeza from Toloache
So many delicious meaty bits went into this awesome taco from Julian Medina of Toloache: fall-apart slips of veal cheek, rib eye, chorizo, and awesomely crunchy chicharron. Pickled onions added a nice contrast. Even with all these ingredients, the chorizo stood out, smoky and spicy and flavoring every bite.
Oyster Taco from Riverpark
Oyster Taco from Riverpark
A fried oyster is a great thing. A really great fried oyster, greaseless and crisp-shelled and soft-middled, is an incredible thing. With green tomato, lime, and pickled onion, this taco from Sisha Ortuzar of Riverpark showcased its main ingredient, just as it should.
Cretan-Spiced Lamb Taco from Kefi
Cretan-Spiced Lamb Taco from Kefi
Like Kin Shop's, not on a tortilla, but probably the better for it. Michael Psilakis of Kefi piled a soft, fresh pita with slow-roasted lamb (breast, shank, and shoulder), a generous shower of feta, and yogurt that bound it all together. Here as well, scattered pickles added crunch and bright acidity.
Carnitas Taco from La Esquina
Carnitas Taco from La Esquina
Crowds of margarita-clutching eaters almost kept us from getting to Akhtar Nawab of La Esquina, but we're glad we fought through: the carnitas were just as deliciously fatty and crisped up as we'd want, with lettuce and a rich, earthy huitlacoche puree.
Lamb Neck Taco from Scarpetta
Lamb Neck Taco from Scarpetta
We didn't love the blue corn tortillas used by Scott Conant of Scarpetta, but man, we loved the braised lamb neck hiding inside, with mushrooms adding an extra earthy element that paired beautifully.
Chorizo and Beef Tounge Taco from The National
Chorizo and Beef Tounge Taco from The National
Okay, it looks a little unappealing when it falls open, but those orange splotches just show you how deliciously oily this spicy chorizo is, paired with beef tongue: two of our favorite meats in one. (Have you noticed our fondness for chorizo and tongue yet?)