The Brunch Dish: Pork, Garlic, Kale Omelet at Applewood in Park Slope
Omelets are rarely the most exciting thing on a brunch menu, but at Applewood in Park Slope, they might be. The menu changes often, but on a recent visit, the options included a vegetable omelet forgoing the usual suspects in favor of eggplant, roasted cherry tomatoes, and rainbow chard ($12); one with seared day boat scallops ($15); and one with pork, kale, and roasted garlic ($14).
It was the last we liked best, gutsy elements whose flavors crept into the eggy foundation: fall-apart tender braised pork whose soft shards embedded in the omelet in some places, stood apart in satisfying chunks in others; hearty kale bathed in the juices of pork and garlic; and the cloves of garlic themselves, soft interruptions of pungent sweetness that enlivened the whole thing.
Rounding out the plate are your choice of grits or potatoes, and your choice of toast or biscuit. In both cases, go with the latter. The potatoes are hot and fluffy-middled and well-seasoned with golden brown crispy edges, and while the biscuit's edges were crumbly and dry, they were so in the manner of a shortbread—so buttery that they just can't go uneaten.