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[Photograph: Robyn Lee]

If you get this shrimp wonton soup ($4.95) for takeout, they'll make the extra effort to package the generous portion of noodles separately. It's a good call, because it helps them retain their springy bite and prevents the wontons from overcooking in the hot broth.

Each tender, delicate-skinned wonton is filled with a whole shrimp, not a ground-up filling. The shrimp retains its snappy texture and sweetness, accented by a lightly shrimpy, salty broth. We'd order this again as soup season continues, and maybe try one of the nearly 30 other soup variations they have, too.

For more-or-less-healthy comfort food, go with the congee, but if you're looking for an indulgent snack to share, the fried wontons ($6.75) are tasty and greasy, each stuffed with one teeny shrimp, and served with sweet and sour sauce (complete with chunks of pineapple).

Noodle Village

13 Mott Street, New York 10013 (between Bowery and Bayard, map)
212-233-0788

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