[Photo: Kathy YL Chan]

In the cooler months, Snack Taverna's Horta Boureki ($12) is high on my list of preferred comfort food. It's a bit elegant for lunch, but the portions are generous enough for two to share if you tack on an appetizer or soup.

A flaky, and beautifully wrapped ring of phyllo dough harbors a substantial, vegetable and cheese-based filling of swiss chard with a tangle of leeks, currants and feta cheese. Slice in, and be careful; it's steaming hot, the feta melting in a sauce that binds all the garlicky sauteed swiss chard. It's served on a bed of heavily herbed farro salad and a spicy feta spread. It runs on the salty side and is almost too rich; I like to have a few slices of toasted baguette on the side to soak up the sauce, and buffer it with some neutral carbs.

If you're craving something meaty, they offer two other versions of Boureki. One with a blend of ground lamb and beef with kefalotyri cheese; and another, even richer version with mushrooms and roasted chicken in a bechamel sauce. Now that will surely put you into a post-lunch coma at the desk. So don't forget the coffee!

Snack Taverna

63 Bedford Street, New York, NY 10014 (map)

About the author: Originally from Honolulu, Kathy YL Chan writes A Passion For Food, where she chronicles her eats and travels adventures between Hawai'i, New York and beyond. She firmly believes that there is always room for dessert.

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