A Sandwich a Day: The Italiano at Bierkraft
In this great city of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around New York. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.
Every time I get a sandwich from Bierkraft, I wonder why I ever get sandwiches from anywhere else. And I'm kicking myself for only just discovering their Italiano ($10, includes chips and fruit). I suppose I'd thought it just a conventional layering of cured meats, less compelling than their more interesting offerings, but how wrong I was.
Bierkraft's version isn't just the salty ham and spicy capicola, say, you'd get on any old oil-drenched hero. It starts with the classics, sure: prosciutto di Parma, hot sopressata. But then you've got the tender, deliciously fatty-edged ham Bierkraft roasts in house; the coarse-ground "Petit Jesu" salami; and, my favorite part, a generous shower of Pecorino Sardo to lend a slightly sweet, slightly sheepy bite. It's lightened up with just enough fresh arugula, roasted peppers, and bright red tomato that's every bit as sweet and flavorful as you'd hope in early September, and finished off with a little olive oil and balsamic. I bite into it and there's nothing else I want.