A Sandwich A Day: Pork Bracciole from Zito's Sandwich Shoppe
In this great city of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around New York. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.
I haven't quite decided yet if Zito's Sandwich Shoppe is my new favorite lunch spot in Park Slope, but I'm more than willing to keep going back until I've made up my mind. Just opened on Seventh Avenue, Zito's bills itself as a classic Italian sandwich shop, done right by the standards of 2011 Brooklyn: responsibly sourced meats, seasonal veggies, and all the rest of it. But a lot of their menu is resolutely old-school, drawing from the greats: Salumeria Biellese cured meats, Ottomanelli's uncooked meats, Faicco's pork. Most sandwiches come on Il Fornaretto hero rolls and they're enormous—even a hearty eater would find one hard to finish.
So far, my favorite sandwich has been the 8-Hour Slow Cooked Pork Bracciole ($10). They take a butterflied loin of pork (from the West Village's Faicco's Pork Store) that's lightly stuffed with provolone, garlic, parsley, and a sparing hand of bread crumbs to bind that stuffing together; it's the pork that makes the sandwich, of course, and it's delicious, falling apart on first bite, quite lean but not tough in the slightest. The whole thing is smothered with a straightforward tomato sauce, just enough to moisten the bread (though we suspect pork drippings help with that, too), and a bit of Parmesan lends a salty bite. Altogether, it's sloppy and satisfying in a well-composed way—just, we'd guess, what they're going for.