[Photo: Maggie Hoffman]

I found the lunch specials at Malaysian restaurant Nyonya a little hit-or-miss a few months ago. But since then, I've realized that it might be best to forgo that section of the menu altogether; sure, the lunch deal is $6.50, but a number of tastier (and plenty filling) dishes cost just about the same.

Case in point: the Mee Goreng ($6.95), stir-fried egg noodles with tofu, potatoes, shrimp, and eggs. They're tossed in a sauce with soy and chilies that's a little spicy and a little fishy (thanks to dried squid) but incredibly satisfying, particularly as it seeps into the spongy egg and tofu. Little charred bits around the edges (plus bean sprouts and peanuts) add just enough crunch.

That's one noodle craving satisfied; I'll be back for their char kuey teow.


199 Grand St, New York NY 10013 (map)


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