[Photo: Robyn Lee]

Lunch at Big Wong King can be a lightning-fast endeavor, but not if you spend half an hour reading through the hundreds of things on the menu. So we'll save you time and point you toward the Roast Duck or the Soy Sauce Chicken ($3.75 each).

We won't claim to know they're the best items you can order there; but we can say that either one is tremendously satisfying and shockingly inexpensive (will we ever get used to duck lunches under four dollars? I daresay we won't). The duck meat with its shiny, lacquered skin was the obvious favorite; but just as good was the uncommonly tender soy sauce chicken, whose skin was almost as appealing. Duck on rice, we expected to love; chicken on rice might be the more exciting find.

Of course, we picked off all the meat and left the rice behind; but it's good to know that there's enough rice to make a more than filling lunch.

Big Wong King

67 Mott Street, New York NY 10013 (map)

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