[Photographs: Jessica Leibowitz]

On a colder day, we could imagine craving Pho Bang's Com Thit Heo Kho Nuoc Dau Tuoi Dua Gia ($6.25), pork cooked with coconut juice and caramel sauce. It was more of a savory broth than sauce, really, and the pork is quite tender, if a little bland. It's nothing that will blow your mind, but pleasant and comforting enough. It's served with a bean sprout salad featuring pickled carrots and scallions.

We also tried the Banh Cuon Nhan Thit Cha Lua ($6.75), the Vietnamese steamed rice crepe rolled up with ground pork and mushrooms, piled with sprouts and fried shallots, served alongside slices of mortadella-esque Vietnamese ham. Again, not as complexly flavored as we wanted, but better after a dunk in the little tub of nước chấm, the orange sauce made with fish sauce and some sugar.

Pho Bang

157 Mott Street, New York NY 10013 (map)