[Photos: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

Was anyone else a fan of the Beef Rydberg on the bar menu at Aquavit? Marcus Samuelsson's take on the classic Swedish dish made with diced beef tenderloin and potatoes was tender, crisp and well-seasoned, like a really good beef hash. With the Lamb and Sweet Potato Hash ($15) on the new brunch menu at Red Rooster (review here), he riffs on the dish, replacing the beef with tender marinated chunks of spiced lamb, supplementing the potatoes with cubes of sweet potato and earthy beets. The whole thing is cooked down with plenty of rosemary and served in a hot cast iron skillet smothered in creamy, lemony hollandaise.

If there's one complaint to be made, it's that it runs a tad on the greasy side. You can expect a little pool of flavorful-but-greasy lamb-scented oil in the bottom of your dish. But sometimes, on a Sunday morning, that's exactly what you need.

Red Rooster

310 Lenox Avenue, New York NY 10037 (b/n 125th and 126th Streets; map)


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