Lunch Today

Lunchtime adventures from the Serious Eats editors.

Lunch Today: Nyonya, Malaysian Food on Grand Street

Ed. Note: Our new neighborhood is so riddled with crazy inexpensive lunches that we've decided to try out as many as we can. Our lunch today could be your lunch tomorrow.

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[Photo: Carey Jones]

The menu at Malaysian restaurant Nyonya is so extensive that it's really helpful to have a list of lunch specials that narrows down your options. Any one of 16 entrees are just $6.50 and come with rice (in most cases) as well as the soup of the day.

I quite enjoyed the Sambal Shrimp Over Rice pictured at top; large, nicely cooked shrimp are bathed in a sauce that tastes of chilies and shrimp paste and lime, those flavors distinct, rather than just fusing in an ill-defined sauce; tender strings of sauteed onion, bell peppers that keep a little bite, and thin shards of mango round out the dish. (We definitely preferred it to the beef Masak Lemak Over Rice, whose sauce showed no character other than being brown and gloopy.) Even if you're letting the lunch menu dictate your main course, it's not a bad idea to at least look at the rest of the menu. An order of roti canai is rarely a bad idea.

Nyonya

199 Grand St, New York NY 10013 (map)
212-334-3669

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