What We Like At Epicerie Boulud

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[Photos: Robyn Lee]

Daniel Boulud's latest project is Epicerie Boulud, just next to Bar Boulud; it's both eat-in cafe and take-out market, with morning pastries, lunchtime sandwiches, and all-day meats and cheeses (the charcuterie cured in-house; the cheeses curated by Saxelby Cheesemongers). And there's quite a bit we love on the menu.

The Tarte Breton is a must try; eggy custard in the center, buttery-crumbed cake on the outside. Halfway between a cake and a clafoutis and seriously delicious.

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Their croissant has a shatteringly crisp outer shell and a soft, rich interior, with the slight tang of cultured butter. It's impressive, though perhaps not life-changing. We'd love to try these straight out of the oven.

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Pain au chocolat has a creamy, fudgy center, the same flaky dough. Delicious; we just wish there were a little more chocolate!

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How about the lunch options? The lobster itself on the Lobster Salad Roll is a bit overly spiced, which keeps the fresh sweetness from shining through; that said, there are big chunks of lobster, plus a few coins of celery, creamy avocado, horseradish dressing, sliced tomato, and butter lettuce; it's all on a brioche roll. If you're the type who wants nothing going on in your lobster roll but sweet lobster and butter, this isn't the one for you.

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The Turkey Club was far better; layers of egg, bacon, turkey, avocado (which got a little brown) with thin slices of bread. All the flavors mingle into a deliciously creamy, smoky rich mixture.

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The Ham Sandwich was another favorite; the French know how to do these things. Ham, cheese, butter, mustard, and a good baguette. The butter makes all the difference.

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Finish out lunch with a dulce de leche eclair with sea salt. It's an excellent pastry, though the puddingy filling is seriously sweet; we could have used a little more salt to offset it.

Epicerie Boulud

1900 Broadway, New York NY 10023 (map)
212-595-9606
danielnyc.com/epicerie

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