Bacon Butter Popcorn ($5) and Lavender-Rosemary Popcorn ($5)
Of the first, every bite was laced in bacon flavor, amped up by a crumble of Maldon sea salt; yet despite the bacon drenching, it didn't seem greasy in the slightest. Lavender is a tricky ingredient to work with, but Lavender-Rosemary Popcorn had enough of the latter to play up the flower's herbal aspects; it was elusively floral, predominantly herbal, not soapy or perfumey. Both in generous bowls, we'd order either again in a minute.
Dates paired with a salty pancetta and an aggressively funky Roaring Forties Blue that countered the jammy stickiness of the dates. Make sure you get it all in one bite.
Biscuits with Brown Butter and Crushed Black Pepper ($5)
There was nothing flaky or crumbly about them, if that's the sort of biscuit you're expecting. But as a bready starter, we loved them. They were yeasty and buttery, but in the best of ways, the bottoms almost saturated in brown butter—and that's a good thing.
Duck Confit Rillette with Pickled Miso Eggs and Toast ($11)
Lacked the silky, indulgent fattiness we love about duck rillettes; the eggs tasted fine but didn't show any particular miso flavor.
Bay Scallops ($13)
Yes, bay scallops are an expensive ingredient, but four tiny dots on the plate border on silly; moreover, these were a bit chewy, not the tender, delicate creatures they can be.
5-Spoke Tumbleweed Poutine ($14)
Poutine seemed a bit of a stretch; they weren't as gravy-soaked or melty-curded as that name would imply. They're great as cheese fries, though, and the Tumbleweed from New York's 5 Spoke Creamery is excellent, somewhere between a Cheddar and something softer, certainly creamy when melted; that said, any subtlety in its flavor is somewhat lost in the (delicious) savory mass of gravy and fries. Get a particularly cheesey bite, though, and you'll be quite happy.
Large Raviolo ($22)
With ricotta, ramp pesto and pistachio oil, it all sounded lovely on the menu but didn't come together; pasta not quite delicate, ricotta undersalted, pesto almost inedibly salted.
Roasted Bone Marrow with French Fries ($17)
The slippery-soft marrow itself is as good as it should be, particularly the edges; we were dying for some bread to spread it on, though. The skin-on fries themselves were excellent, deliciously crisp and salty, but add another salty, fatty element and it's all a bit overwhelming. (It's also impossible to imagine eating the whole plate.)We'd recommend getting it as an appetizer for four or more to share; bone marrow is a good thing, but this level is daunting—unless you are of much stronger resolution than we.
Dutch Baby ($10)
A skillet-baked pancake that's eggy and delicate with a great outside crisp, served so hot it's steaming in the middle, melting the freshly whipped cream so that it soakes into every squishy pour; with an apple compote, it's somewhat autumnal, somewhat breakfast-reminiscient, but absolutely good enough to enjoy any time of day or year.