The East Village brunch crowds may not have discovered Heartbreak Restaurant yet, but that's their loss. I'll be heading back soon for another plate of the German-style Pancake with Wild Mushroom Ragout ($14). It's more like a blintz than a pancake, quite delicate and tender. Each is stuffed with a creamy thyme-flecked mushroom sauce. While we would have preferred a stack of grilled asparagus alongside (two spears as a garnish seems miserly) the dish hit the spot; it was rich without being overly heavy, and the different mushrooms retained their shape and character.

The Omelette with Smoked Trout and Horseradish ($14) was less of a success. The trout was subtle and savory, but it was totally overpowered by the horseradish that made up at least half of the omelette's filling. The potatoes served alongside were nicely crisp, and the slaw was tangy and refreshing, but even horseradish lovers found this dish a little much. Next time, we'll stick with the pancake and the maultaschen, a German version of ravioli that are served pan-fried.

Heartbreak Restaurant

29 East 2nd Street, New York, NY 10003 (map)
212-777-2502; heartbreakrestaurant.com/