[Photo: Lingbo Li]

They came, fried in duck fat and rising out of the white ceramic like a peacock's tail. I had never seen a basket of fries look majestic, but these managed to do just that. Thicker cut and fried to a fat, bronzed crunch, they're paired with an arresting malt vinegar mayo that calls to mind a Brit's fish and chips. They're an accidental runaway hit, their creator told me. "I didn't want to be famous for my fries," Chef Amanda Freitag admitted. Understood, but if it's any consolation, they're absurdly good.

The Harrison

355 Greenwich Street, New York NY 10013 (map)
212-274-9310