The brilliantly sourced American whiskeys and Charles Bukowski-inspired stylings of nightlife wunderkind Alla Lapushchik—a Death & Co. founding member at the pre-legal age of 19—are already enough of a draw to her new bar Post Office, but it's the brash yet simple cooking of chef Sam Glinn (Brooklyn Star, Momofuku Ssam Bar) that will have you coming back again and again.
Glinn loves two things above all else: pork and pickles, two whiskey-friendly items that elegantly complement the smokiness and sweetness of most bourbons and ryes. In that respect, the Chicken Liver Bacon Sandwich ($8) is one of the stars of the menu. A healthy slathering of chicken liver and thick bacon slices is layered on a crusty baguette, its fattiness cut with lightly pickled cucumber, carrot and shallot and frisee tossed in green apple vinaigrette. The comparison to Vietnamese banh mi is inevitable, but this is a version that doesn't leave you wanting the original.
A sign outside touts the Pulled Pork Sandwich ($7) for good reason. Post Office's version has tender, fatty pork shoulder doused in barbecue sauce balanced by a vinegary slaw. The brioche bun deftly soaks up the meaty juices.
Even the Grilled Cheese ($7) finds itself stuffed with bacon (though they will leave it out if you ask). The mix of American and cheddar on sourdough here is on point, but this sandwich pales in comparison to its counterparts.
Deviled Eggs ($5) are also topped with bacon, but it's the slight hit of vinegary acidity—the other half of Glinn's culinary loves—that sets them apart from the traditional hors d'oeuvres.
The Pickle Plate ($5) is a cornucopia of tangy munchies made in-house: carrots, beets, cauliflower, red pepper, shiitakes, watermelon rinds, blackberries, Asian pears, and bread and butter pickles, among others. Whether a simple starter or a grand finale, the colorful platter serves as the perfect palate refresher for a night's worth of Old Fashioneds and Michters on the rocks.
About the author: Nancy Huang, who comes to New York by way of Los Angeles, writes The Wanderkind, a food and travel blog of adventures here and abroad. She loves noodles, subway maps, and word games.