The Delight ($9)
Very aptly named. "That sure is delightful!" said Kenji between bites. Corned beef that's been brined for 14 days gets layered with melted Muenster and crunchy, a tad creamy coleslaw on wide slices o Orwasher's Pumpernickle. The Thousand Island dressing is housemade, but true to the nostalgic peach-colored cream you grew up drenching on salads. This is a juicy, meaty, gut-busting sandwich that had us fighting for the last half.
Grilled Cheese ($5)
Apples and cheese have always been a happy marriage. Here, the melted cheddar from Shelburne Farms melds with tart, crisp apple slices and a swipe of Solebury Orchard's dark apple butter for a sweet touch. This one comes on Sullivan Street's 7-Grain Pullman bread (all the rest use Orwasher's bread). For a buck more, we added the bacon from Surry, Virginia (you should too).
Pork Roll ($4)
This Jersey favorite is a porky saltbomb. A few thin layers of the pink bologna-resembling slices are slapped on white bread with a fluffy, fresh egg patty. "Is the pork in the bread?" some non-Jersey-hailing customers have asked. But the neighbors are slowly coming around to it. "Of the breakfast sandwiches, we used to sell ten-to-one in favor of the egg and cheese over the pork roll, but now it's about five-to-one."
Breakfast Sandwich ($5)
Two fluffy eggs covered in melted Shelburne Farms cheddar with a few leaves of arugula thrown in there, on a square-shaped ciabatta from Orwasher's Breads. The breakfast sandwich fanatics at SE approve.
Turkey Club ($10)
This triple-decker layers moist roasted white meat with confit dark meat between slices of fluffy white bread, sweet mayo, crisp iceberg and a tomato slice. Getting the turkey (both white and dark) that succulent is a process. Trays of the dark chunks absorb duckfat juices overnight in the walk-in, then get pan-seared and crispy-edged to order. The white meat marinates in a green paste of parsley, rosemary, thyme, and a hint of brown sugar, then gets roasted. Not your average diner, toothpick-speared club sandwich, that's for sure. This was one of our favorites.
A very fine sandwich, but if we were in a beefy mood, we'd go after The Delight instead. The layers of brined shortrib are on Orwasher's wine bread, which has been leavened with yeast from the winemaking process. Shreds of red and white cabbage kraut on top with sharp Comte cheese.
D.C. pride! And for everyone else, a half-smoke primer: they're often made from equal portions of beef and pork. Where does the "half" part originate? Several theories exist (it's only smoked halfway, it's cut in half when on the grill, blah blah). The CSG crew drives all the way to Mangers in Baltimore, the half-smoke-producing headquarters, to pick up this special tubesteak, then smothers it in chili on a squishy Martin's potato bun.
Why didn't Mom ever wrap meatloaf with bacon again? The beef-veal loaf gets the bacon treatment along with a squirt of sweet ketchup and slices of full-sour pickles from the barrels at Gus's.
Catskill Roast Pork ($8)
This felt like Chinese take-out on garlic bread. Ed was an especially big fan of the tamarind-seasoned pork loin smothered in sweet, sticky housemade duck sauce on the buttery toasted bread.