Slideshow: M. Wells Diner: A Fine Diner In Long Island City, Queens

Escargot and Bone Marrow ($9)
Escargot and Bone Marrow ($9)
The snails are lined up surprisingly neatly on the canoe-like bone in the seriously tasty and rich (a descriptor which fits many of the dishes here) Escargot and Bone Marrow.
Veal brains ($15)
Veal brains ($15)
In a Grenobloise sauce, they are so intense, so, well, brainy, that you will definitely not say they taste like chicken.
Caesar Salad ($7)
Caesar Salad ($7)
Taken to unexpected heights with house-smoked herring dressing replacing the traditional anchovies. Pure genius!
Jerky Salad ($12)
Jerky Salad ($12)
Featuring shaved brussels sprouts and venison jerky.
Green salad ($6)
Green salad ($6)
Anything but ordinary, with its sprightly and smooth buttermilk dressing and greens that were fresher than they had any right to be in March.
Hamburger ($42)
Hamburger ($42)
Made with 60% beef clod (shoulder) and 40% lamb shoulder, and comes topped with a tower of onion rings spooled with a steak knife. We made good use of that knife when we cut the burger into eight pieces. The meat juices soaked the bun (in a good way) and were so tasty the flavor of the sharp Canadian cheddar on the burger wasn't obscured in the slightest.
Porterhouse of Pork ($17)
Porterhouse of Pork ($17)
A slab of tender, designer, humanely raised pig that could have used a better sear and a little more color—but the excellent fries and the homemade horseradish-y Luger's sauce that accompanied the pork more than made up for the insufficient sear.
Grilled cheese sandwiches stuffed with foie gras
Grilled cheese sandwiches stuffed with foie gras
Dipped into a thick tomato soup, it was as intensely pleasurable a bite of food as I've had this year.
Paris-Brest
Paris-Brest
A well-made, over-sized version of the classic French pastry.