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[Photo: Maggie Hoffman]

When I hear griddled cheese sandwich I assume that cheese will be the focus, or at least the essential glue holding the sandwich together. But the Griddled Cheese Sandwich ($14) at Five Points is a jaw-stretcher, and at least half of it is thinly-sliced apples, cooked until just tender but not mushy. The double smoked bacon is thick and meaty, and powerfully flavorful; it would be fantastic in a BLT, but here, it fights with the apples, aged cheddar, and grainy mustard for attention. The cheese is excellent; tangy and sharp, but there's not quite enough of it to get really creamy. Every ingredient in this sandwich is top-notch, but one thing should be eliminated. Bacon-cheddar would work, cheddar-apple would probaby be fantastic. But as it is, this bacon-apple-cheddar-mustard sandwich is a slightly confusing mouthful.

Five Points

31 Great Jones Street, New York, NY 10012 (map)
212-253-5700; fivepointsrestaurant.com

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