20100126 - 134758 - M Wells - Foie Gras.jpg

[Photo: Kathy YL Chan]

It's possible to feast well on foie gras, escargot, and bone marrow for less than $20. Here's how. Take the 7 train to M. Wells for lunch. Best to go early or go late. There will be a wait no matter when you go, though off-hours shorten that wait considerably. Foie Gras alone is not listed on the menu. But request it as a "side" dish and out come two beautiful pieces, gently seared. The crisp hunks are supported by a warm and thick slice of toast that meets at the butteriest intersection of brioche and a pullman loaf, indulgent enough on its own—even before the foie. Drizzles of scallion oil finish it off. Heavenly, and just $10.

20100126 - 134758 - M Wells - Escargot Bone Marrow.jpg

Next, Escargots and Bone Marrow ($9). Precisely six plump and garlic-laced escargots are playfully tucked into the halved bone. The marrow is first scooped out to make room for the escargots. Then the inch-long cuts of wobbly, fatty marrow are layered on top, finished with a bare bread crumb topping, shallots and red wine puree. Pick up the cracker-thin toast and smother on the bone marrow, top with an escargot, and slice off a piece of foie gras from the previous dish. A bite of all things glorious, fatty, and savory. You may be clutching for your heart after lunch—that's why you need a glass of house lemonade for relief, one confidently tart concoction that gets the job done.

M. Wells

21-17 49th Avenue, Queens NY 11101 (map)
718-425-6917
mwellsdiner.com

About the author: Originally from Honolulu, Kathy YL Chan writes A Passion For Food, where she chronicles her eats and travels adventures between Hawai'i, New York and beyond. She firmly believes that there is always room for dessert.

Comments can take up to a minute to appear - please be patient!

Previewing your comment: