Editor's note: In "Apps Only," Ben Fishner will be eating his way through New York's appetizer, bar, and lounge menus as your guide to fine dining on a budget. He blogs at Ben Cooks Everything.

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Double Decker Broccoli Tacos from No. 7 in Fort Greene. [Photos: Ben Fishner]

These days, No. 7 is perhaps best known for their sandwich shop at the Ace Hotel, but they've been making inventive and sometimes wacky dishes at their Fort Greene gastropub since 2008. With a menu stacked with appetizers and bar snacks, it seemed a perfect destination for a meal of small plates..

After a stellar bread plate that included a thin, cheesy white bean dip and a bowl of quick-pickled cucumbers, we started with a couple dishes from No. 7's bar menu. The Double Decker Broccoli Tacos ($7) consisted of a soft flour tortilla wrapped around a crispy taco shell, filled with hoisin-laced beans, salty feta cheese, pine nuts and battered fried broccoli florets. A very strange taco indeed, but somehow all of these ingredients worked together, forming a really tasty snack. At seven bucks for two of these, the tacos were also a great deal. Also from No. 7's bar menu, we ordered a small French Fries ($4), another great value served up with an incredibly appealing balsamic mayo.

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French fries with balsamic mayo.

From there we moved on to the appetizers section of No. 7's dinner menu, sharing an order of Filet of Beef Confit ($14), chunks of beef and watermelon radish served chilled along with chimichurri, apple creme fraiche, and matzoh. Here, the kitchen's gambles didn't pay off as well. The beef confit itself was fine, if underwhelming, but that matzoh didn't sit right with me. It seemed funny to serve the bread of affliction instead of the usual toast points, but this was not an improvement—just novelty. The other condiments were delicious, but overall, I wouldn't order this again.

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Filet of beef confit with apple creme fraiche and chimichurri.

All in all, we had a good meal at No. 7, and it was nothing if not unique. We got out under budget, spending just $25 before tax and tip for the two of us, and everything was of a good value. Not every dish was a total hit, but that's the risk you take when you put yourself at the whim of such an inventive kitchen.

No. 7

7 Greene Avenue, Brooklyn NY 11238 (map)
718-522-6370
no7restaurant.com

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