Street Food

The best food from the street.

Street Food: Kumquat Cupcakery

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[Photo: Kathy YL Chan]

The Brooklyn Flea Market, currently putting in a full week at the Williamsburg Savings Bank in anticipation of Christmas, was madness this last Sunday; the food section, in the back of one of the three (that's right, three) floors of the Flea, is one of the few refuges from the crowd.

Maybe I was just looking for a little bit of order in this mad, mad Flea Market world, but the miniature cupcakes, all in their little concentric circles, seemed to be calling to me. Kumquat Cupcakery is a regular--a pop up bakery that shows up at every Saturday and Sunday at the Brooklyn Flea.

The red velvet cupcake is a one-bite wonder. Alone, the frosting is too rich and, well, velvety, while the cake not velvety enough. The duo, however, tastes rich and sumptuous.

By contrast, the peanut butter, maple, and cinnamon cupcake, with crumbly, crispy cinnamon bits, a super-sweet maple syrup icing, and a light, rich, and almost creamy peanut butter cake, was one flavor too many. I loved each component individually, but they seemed to cancel each other out when combined.

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[Photo: Madison Priest]

The chocolate lavender cupcake tastes just the way lavender smells; there was a bit too much icing in this particular instance, but served over another moist, pliant chocolate cake base, this cupcake was still a winner. The same base made a showing in the chocolate peppermint cupcake. The fire-engine red frosting reminds me of a candy cane, and while the cupcake overall was quite good, it was not my favorite.

Last, the pumpkin bacon cupcake is a treat: a moist, dense base that tastes like pumpkin, not spiced pumpkin bread, underneath an appropriately sized dollop buttery icing and real delicious bacon. The candied walnuts on top add a nice touch, too.

Kumquat Cupcakery

Check the Kumquat Cupcakery website or the Brooklyn Flea website for details.

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