[Photo: Kathy YL Chan]

"The Best Chocolate Cake in the World" in Soho is, of course, best known for their chocolate cake, which many argue is not even a cake but a torte—with shiny, silky ganache poured over alternating layers of chocolate mousse and a crumbly chocolate meringue. And is it the best "cake" in the world? It's quite an overstatement, though the chocolate-rich dessert is very tasty indeed.

Regardless, I come to this Soho cafe not for the cake, but for the savory dishes. There are exactly four tables in the tiny place, with a primarily international crowd and shoppers in Soho who happen to be passing by. On one visit I was sandwiched between a group of five friends from Ireland and a French couple. On another visit it was me between two guys from Texas and a lone gentleman watching The Fast and the Furious on this laptop. You can linger for as long as you wish and they won't bat an eye. Books, laptops, and journals? Sure. Start with a drink, perhaps the Iced Chocolate ($4.50) made with Valrhona chocolate. The drink is served with sugar on the side as it comes completely unsweetened. And that's how I like it best, verging on bitter. It's thin, but sophisticated, boasting a deep and bold chocolate taste. In the dead of winter you may opt for the hot chocolate, but it's always very warm in this cafe, so no matter how I cold I am outside, I always change my mind one I step in.

To eat, you'll want the house special, Portuguese Empadas ($4.50 - $5.50), offered in Chicken, Vegetarian, and Veal Mushroom. Get the last of these: a hot buttery puff pastry shell stuffed with tender, shredded veal and mushrooms that have soaked up all the meat juices. It makes for a flaky mess, and certainly not graceful eating—they give you a fork and knife, but it's most delicious with your fingers. The empadas are baked in their Brooklyn kitchen and reheated to order at the cafe. Two empadas plus a drink make a well-sized lunch. If you go the empadas route, skip the chocolate drinks, and keep the liquid portion of your meal light with one of the Market Juice offerings. Selections vary, often including Blueberry, Strawberry, and Lemon and Grapefruit ($4.75 for 9 ounces). They're freshly squeezed, and just like the hot chocolate, there's not a touch of added sugar. Similar to the fruits juices at Tartinery just around the corner, though with a smaller fruit selection.

Sandwiches take up a bulk of the menu, all classics with a small twist, done satisfyingly well. Nothing particularly new or mind blowing, but sometimes you just want dependable. And that's what they offer. The Vegetarian ($8) couples olive tapenade with pickled red onions and layers of grilled green and yellow zucchini, and eggplant. It comes with a side salad, but it's often a sad, wilted dish in comparison to the sandwich. For something heartier, consider for the Smoked Turkey ($9) piled in a warm baguette with spiced paprika aioli, avocado, and a tomato and pepper tapenade. There's something to please everyone on the sandwich menu, and from a business perspective, that's exactly what you need in this neighborhood.

The Best Chocolate Cake in the World

55A Spring Street, New York, NY 10012 (map)
212-343-2253
thebestchocolatecake.com