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[Photo: Ben Fishner]

Waiting to order my sandwich from the Kwik Meal cart, I noticed that I'd been scooped by Serious Eats Head Honcho Ed Levine, whose 2004 New York Times writeup of the cart still hangs for all to see. Ed beat me by six years, but I thought it'd still be a good idea to see if Kwik Meal's Lamb Pita ($7) holds up after all these years.

I'm happy to report that it does indeed. Proprietor Mohammed Rahman never got the memo that street cart gyros should be quick and dirty affairs. Instead of an overstuffed gyro dripping with grease and white sauce, Kwik Meal's version is a slender, modest affair. What it lacks in size, it makes up for in quality. Every ingredient gets upgraded here. Instead of precooked street meat, you get tender cubes of marinated lamb, cooked so that they're just a bit pink in the middle. Instead of the ubiquitous "white sauce," the sandwich is topped with a tangy yogurt and cucumber dressing. Just enough lettuce, tomato and red onion add a bit of crunch, while the bread is rich and oily without being overly greasy. I love street meat as much as the next Midtown cube dweller, but Kwik Meal's lamb pita is a step above.

Kwik Meal

Southwest corner of 6th Avenue and 45th Street, New York NY (map)

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