[Photos: Nikki Goldstein]

With a name like salmon and eggs vol-au-vent, you'd hope this dish came with an explanation. Alas, L'Ecole keeps it a surprise—even the waiters won't tell you much if you ask. Maybe you know that vol-au-vent is a filo-wrapped presentation, though that frankly doesn't clarify much. I'd imagined, in my poached-egg-loving-mind, that somehow this was akin to a deep fried egg that's still runny in the center—just subbing the fried for filo.

But no: they've created a creamy scramble, studded with a fine salmon dice, stuffing it into a rolled-up filo nest. It's all served with a small green salad and a buttery, flaky, fall-apart potato terrine that layers what seem like a hundred paper-thin slices into one skinny, crisped brick. The combo is reminiscent of lox and latkes, boosted by that sophistication you expect from the FCI.


This is the kind of brunch you want to take your parents to. Upscale-feeling, classic French technique at its best, and still a good deal to boot, L'Ecole's brunch takes the form of a $19.50 prix fixe with an appetizer, entrée, and pastry basket filled with all sorts of goodies you'll be eager to devour. Recently, a buttery raisin scone was a big hit, as was the banana loaf—they're not messing around there. But things don't get much more adventurous than the eggs vol-au-vent, or perhaps the ratatouille-topped burger.


462 Broadway, New York NY 10013 (map)


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