The Brunch Dish

Brunch menus to do your weekend right.

The Brunch Dish: Salmon and Eggs Vol au Vent at L'Ecole

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[Photos: Nikki Goldstein]

With a name like salmon and eggs vol-au-vent, you'd hope this dish came with an explanation. Alas, L'Ecole keeps it a surprise—even the waiters won't tell you much if you ask. Maybe you know that vol-au-vent is a filo-wrapped presentation, though that frankly doesn't clarify much. I'd imagined, in my poached-egg-loving-mind, that somehow this was akin to a deep fried egg that's still runny in the center—just subbing the fried for filo.

But no: they've created a creamy scramble, studded with a fine salmon dice, stuffing it into a rolled-up filo nest. It's all served with a small green salad and a buttery, flaky, fall-apart potato terrine that layers what seem like a hundred paper-thin slices into one skinny, crisped brick. The combo is reminiscent of lox and latkes, boosted by that sophistication you expect from the FCI.

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This is the kind of brunch you want to take your parents to. Upscale-feeling, classic French technique at its best, and still a good deal to boot, L'Ecole's brunch takes the form of a $19.50 prix fixe with an appetizer, entrĂ©e, and pastry basket filled with all sorts of goodies you'll be eager to devour. Recently, a buttery raisin scone was a big hit, as was the banana loaf—they're not messing around there. But things don't get much more adventurous than the eggs vol-au-vent, or perhaps the ratatouille-topped burger.

L'Ecole

462 Broadway, New York NY 10013 (map)
888-324-2433
www.frenchculinary.com/lecole.htm

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