[Photo: Nikki Goldstein]

It still surprises me how limited Manhattan is in its regional Latin offerings. Agozar! is known more as a happy hour spot than a serious food spot, but it competes well enough with the Bowery's up-and-coming brunches. And really, the bottomless sangria makes up for whatever misgivings you might have about the food—though there was little unhappiness to be found on a recent visit, when all orders across a large table resulted in clean plates. Unquestionably, the favorite was the eggs & vaca frita ($16), a take on the shredded beef dish so typical in Cuba.

Traditionally, vaca frita is a dinner entrée made with onions, lime, and salt, but the lime was a bit absent from Agozar's morning version. Instead, the beef—nicely onion-specked, but in bites dry instead of crispy—was nestled against guacamole and yucca fries, all atop two eggs over easy. Wherever a little moisture was needed, the egg yolks more than compensated. My only real gripe? Guacamole that didn't taste homemade—a bummer in any Latin kitchen that takes itself seriously. But with a little more sangria, you really won't care too much. (If at all.)

Agozar!

324 Bowery, New York NY 10012 (map)
212-677-6773
www.agozarnyc.com