[Photo: Kathy YL Chan]

Put this on your list of pastas to catch before the summer season ends. At Lupa, the Garganelli ($17) are thin, silky floppy folds, the largest garganelli I have encountered in a long time. A deep bowl of the quill-shaped pasta is tossed with fresh summer corn and tiny tomatoes, hot out of the kitchen. There are colorful tangles of yellow and green zucchini and basil. The portion size is generous, but it's a light dish, seasonally appropriate.

In a bite with a little of everything, the flavors pop—but the dish is made by the juice from the sweet, warm tomatoes, I was very careful to mop up any remainders with the warm focaccia squares. A seat at the bar, a glass of rosé, and perhaps the house tartufo for dessert—this is everything summer should be.

Lupa

170 Thompson Street, New York, NY 10012 (map)
212-982-5089
luparestaurant.com