The Brunch Dish: Gozleme at Sip Sak
The dining room was almost completely empty on a recent Saturday morning at Sip Sak, which seems like a downright shame when dinner is so popular and brunch is so wonderful. Service is authentic—in the sense that the ultra sweet Turkish waitresses have such deep pride in the food they serve—and the food follows suit.
But to make sure it's accessible for New Yorkers, the menu also features hilarious (and somewhat inaccurate) translations: the Gozleme ($8.50), for one, is horribly mislabeled as a quesadilla. In fact, when it's ordered with spiced ground meat, there's no cheese in it at all. Regardless, that's the way to go--the meat is vibrantly flavorful with just the smallest flicker of heat and the richness of cumin. The dough enveloping it is one of the most buttery, flaky concoctions I've had in recent memory, and thin as it is, it's in equal proportion to what's inside. Pressed together, there's an unexpected delicacy on the plate, made all the more appropriate for morning by a cool schmear of thick, tangy yogurt. Order it with a strong (truly Turkish) iced coffee and you're looking at one of the best deals in the neighborhood.