Roast Pork, Ciabatta, & Fried Eggs at Maialino ($13)
Slices of tender roast pork topped by two perfect sunnyside-up eggs, served on a crispy yet pliant ciabatta roll with a few greens thrown in for textural contrast. Porky, juicy, delicious.
Mortadella Sandwich with pizza bianca and provolone ($5)
The best bologna sandwich ever, on light, olive-oily pizza bianca, made in a sandwich press. A grilled square of Italian sandwich perfection.
A glazed croissant is better than any cornetto I've had in Italy; an olive oil muffin is moist and not at all heavy, with just enough olive-y flavor; and there may not be anything Italian about the citrus scones, but they're just about perfect.
Doughnuts with Cream
Two yeast-y little custard-filled doughnuts with just a squiggle of custard breaking through the doughnut surface.
Ricotta pancakes ($12)
Light, fluffy, slightly tangy pancakes with lovely crisp, caramelized edges.
Hazelnut granola and yogurt ($11)
It came with mixed fruit and vincotto, a dish of perfect little piles of tangy yogurt drizzled with balsamic vinegar, unusally delicious hazelnutty granola, and chunks of fresh fruit macerated in vincotto. Sounds pedestrian but most assuredly isn't.
Crispy pork terrine, lentils, and poached egg ($14)
A rectangle of crispy pig terrine, one that visually could pass as an order of McDonald's hash browns, comes with creamy lentils and a poached egg. This is a breakfast dish that's made for mooshing, and don't hesitate to do just that.
Smoked swordfish ($12)
Satin-y see-through slices of cold-smoked swordfish, pickled red onion, and robiolina are, when served with toasted ciabatta, the pitch-perfect Italian version of a signature sandwich that Barney Greengrass would serve if they opened a branch in Rome.
Baked eggs in spicy tomato sauce and guanciale ($12)
A classic dish improved by the guanciale Anderer incorporates.
Roasted potatoes with rosemary ($5)
Italian home fries—good, solid, but not life-changing.
Thick cut black pepper bacon ($6)
Perhaps the best housemade bacon in this city, worthy of comparisons with Nueske's and even Alan Benton.
House-made pork sausage
A breakfast sausage with broccoli rabe and pecorino—"As the sausage cooks the cheese melts into the pork meat," explains Anderer—so juicy that when I cut into it at one breakfast meeting, a beam of pork fat shot straight from the plate to my dining companion's shirt and tie. Graciously, he didn't make me pay the dry cleaning bill.