We didn't need New York magazine's Approval Matrix, the back-page feature that decides where current pop culture blips land on their taste meter, to tell us that J. Kenji Lopez-Alt's Food Lab column was brilliant. We already knew that. But hey, it's pretty cool to see his thin, crispy french fries right above John Goodman's head (looking good, indeed!) and below James Taylor and Carol King rocking out at Madison Square Garden.