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[Photos:Nikki Goldstein]

It's primarily a wine bar, but you wouldn't know that if you went to The Tangled Vine for brunch. The menu is sophisticated, unique, and well-rounded, but judging from the nearly-empty dining room this past weekend, the neighborhood has yet to discover it. It's worth trekking up for the mushroom fricassee ($15), a heaping pile of sautéed seasonal mushrooms mixed with crispy shoestring fries and topped with a sunny-side-up duck egg. It's the fries that unexpectedly make the dish—they're super thin and crispy, mixed into the mushroom pile for texture rather than sitting next to i—nd with a disproportionately large egg yolk on top, the dish is far from dainty. A dash less salt and crusty bread on the side would make it even better.

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Also exciting was the sourdough French toast ($12), which put a dash of salty into a dish that's usually just sweet. The bread—still fluffy and crunchy despite its signature subtle tang—was layered with rosemary-infused caramelized pecans, a light orange cream, and supremed orange slices, with maple syrup to push the combo just over to the sweet side. Enjoy either dish with a glass of white for your most sophisticated morning ever, or stick to your normal cup of coffee; the food's the surprise star, either way.

The Tangled Vine

434 Amsterdam Avenue, New York NY 10024 (map)
646-863-3896
tangledvinebar.com

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