[Photo: Kathy YL Chan]

Last week we promised a return to El Quinto Pino for the Ensaimada ($4.50), which they recently started serving breakfast and lunch. Lucky for me, I stopped in just as a fresh batch emerged from the oven. Their pastries are tinier that ones I've seen from other bakeries, but pack in quite a bit of flavor. Made from lard and baked to a deep brown, the tops are thoroughly dusted in powdered sugar, the main source of sweetness in this morning bun. Pull off a piece, and the exterior will separate off, crackle crisp, positively crunchy. The interior, while moist, is more dense than fluffy, and begs for a cup of Cafe con Leche, after the jump.

The Cafe con Leche ($3.50) is one of the better in town.

El Quinto Pino

401 West 24th Street, New York NY 10011 (map)
212-206-6900
elquintopinonyc.com