Of the micheladas, mojitos, margaritas, and other cocktails on the menu, we were most partial to the Coctel Sangria: bison grass vodka paired with a Malbec, soda, and lime.
A fine place to start, the guacamole ($7) is creamy, limey, and just chunky enough, with a pile of light and crispy corn tortilla chips that we devoured within minutes.
Tostadas de Ceviche
A delicate halibut ceviche ($9), pleasantly but not aggressively acidic, balanced with just enough guacamole and roasted green squash.
Picaditas de Jaiba
Though the Dungeness crab was nicely seasoned and the corn masa rounds surprisingly light, we missed the jalapeño oil on these picaditas ($7); as it was, the dish tasted like little more than, well, crab on corn.
An huge and hearty bowl of pork soup ($11), with lovely swollen kernels of hominy, ample fall-apart pork, and a gentle heat.
Three to an order ($9). Emphasis on the -ita; they're small, but tasty: we loved the tender wine-braised steak and the crumbly, spicy chorizo. The burrita de verdura, with potato, green squash, and poblano peppers, was fresh-tasting but somewhat flat—the only dish we tried that couldn't fairly be called flavorful.
Also three to an order ($8-$9.50), on corn tortillas that are house-made, and taste it. An expectedly (if not unusually) tasty pork, steak short rib (bone on the side!), and a swordfish with tomato, onion, and Oaxacan cheese; we didn't expect it to work, but it does.
Again, three to an order, and on the small side ($8): a mildly spiced chicken, the same excellent chorizo, and one of the better vegetarian options: a pleasantly chewy cactus in a light chile cream sauce.
Melted cheese is a good thing, and this is no exception. We went for the chorizo ($9), in a sparing bottom layer whose spice didn't overwhelm the cheese. Served with flour tortillas as tender, pliable, and tasty as the corn.
One of the pricier dishes on the menu ($16), but it's a meal in a bowl. Its beautifully confited lamb shank was far more tender than I'd dared to hope, in a consommé that managed to be both clean-tasting and intensely lamb-y.
Our favorite dessert was the Tres Leches cake, an altogether lighter version of what is all too often a leaden confection.